Helpful tips
This page is dedicated to helpful tips for those who are considering purchasing a baby from us. We just want to warn ahead of time before pick up and make sure the new parents are aware of all the do's and dont's with their babies.
Also there a few great websites for further information about skunks, red fox,mini pigs, and raccoons as pets.
For Fox Kits:
For Adult Red Fox:
Also there a few great websites for further information about skunks, red fox,mini pigs, and raccoons as pets.
- http://sybilsden.com/ Is a great website for Raccoons, Red Fox, or Fennec Fox information.
- http://www.skunkhaven.net/ is a great website for all things skunk related!
- https://petsontheshorevh.com/storage/app/media/Mini-Pig-Basic-Care-Client-Handout-1.pdf is a great website for all things mini pig!
For Fox Kits:
- When you get your kit, he/she will be young and not have all their shots yet that fight diseases. WhIch means, DO NOT stop at every rest park, McDonalds, or gas station on the way home where everyone else lets their dogs out. That is NEVER a good idea with any baby animal without all shots.
- Your fox will come without all shots, meaning outsiders who are not close family or friends, probably should not be near your new baby. You do not want your kit coming into contact with any diseases, such as parvo.
- Play with your kit as much as possible!!! There is no such thing as too much attention! When you watch TV or have down time, you really need to be bonding with your baby.
- For the first few days, don't expect he/she to be super friendly, it'll take a few days for the kit to acclimate to the new surroundings and new people, sounds, and smells. New places are scary!! Don't get discouraged, within a few days, your kit will warm up to you.
- Put a harness or collar on as soon as one fits!! If you don't want to buy an endless supply of harnesses because they all get chewed up within 30 minutes, starting early is the best decision!! As soon as you get your kit.
- Be careful who you have around your kit!! For example, if you have a baby in your family, you probably don't want to bring your fox around said baby...sounds obvious but needs to be said.
- DO NOT feed an ALL raw diet! Meat is good, but you also need to provide a base diet of kibble with a variation of foods. Some good sides are eggs, apples, watermelon, chicken, strawberries, hearts, cooked meat, cottage cheese, plain greek yogurt, carrots, etc. When someone feeds an all raw diet, the fox can get rickets. This is when the bones become to weak to support weight of the animal and the density is well below normal. This can cause permanent damage and is the result of a lack in the correct vitamins/calcium. Variety in the diet is key!
- DO NOT feed cooked bones!!! You don't want to take a chance with your babies life.
- Cover your couch with blankets or a cover, it'll save you from ruining you couch due to pee and stains.
- Be cautious of the objects your kits play or sleep with. Impaction could happen so just be sure to supervise and pay careful attention to blanket chewing or stuffing from toys.
- Keep household cleaners, ant traps, mouse traps, etc out of reach from your fox!!! Every year we get calls about these unfortunate events due to the ingestion of toxins from cleaners!
For Adult Red Fox:
- Find a balanced, healthy diet that your fox likes (Alternating foods is a good way to keep them interested)
- Invest in toys without stuffing (unless you're able to provide 24-7 supervision), they will just get ripped within seconds and the fluff could potentially be consumed and cause blockages
- Make sure taurine is implemented into the diet (can be obtained in animal tissues or by supplement).
- Continue to socialize your fox, with family, dogs, yourself, etc.
- I don't recommend walking your fox in public parks or streets/sidewalks, some don't allow fox and could cause extreme stress and anxiety to your fox. Best not to put your fox in harms way. I would recommend more like a field or nature path. We live on a farm with surrounding fields which makes for nice, secluded nature paths.
- Continue to give boosters shots annually and use flea medication if necessary. Don't forget to deworm!!! Annual fecals would be a good idea!
- Make sure they have an outside enclosure. While bringing your fox inside is fine, they also need an enclosure outside to run off steam, be destructive, and see new scenery.
- Buy outside play equipment for children like short slides, tunnels, or ball pits! Most fox love them.
- Inside your enclosure, adding shelves, levels, ramps, big tree limbs, and various nest boxes are a good idea! Red fox love to climb and be high up to observe.
- The enclosure should be fairly large, no smaller than 10x10, and should be completely enclosed from ground up with a roof. Red fox are climbers and can get out of the smallest of holes or die trying. We use welded wire because it is sturdier. Also, cover the enclosure with a roof, we use tin metal.
- Having enrichment available for your fox in their enclosure is a great idea too. Stumps and logs with mealworms inside, thick gatorade bottles with treats inside (don't use regular water bottles, they will be crunched in seconds), dig boxes with goodies mixed in, old pumpkins with fruits and snacks inside (around halloween), or even branches that they can rub on and investigate are great ways to keep your fox busy when they are out of the house.
For Raccoons:
- Baby proofing is a must!! They have hands like children, meaning they get into and open everything within reach!
- DO's: BUY a kiddy pool and fill it with water, I promise you won't regret it! (When coon is within a reasonable age of course)
- Start harness training early. If you don't, the harness will be very hard to put on when older (trust me).
- Try and establish a pooping area early or buy an enclosed large cat litter box.
- Outside enclosures are recommended, but a large inside enclosure would work too, or even an entire room dedicated to your raccoon. Coonies love to climb so incorporating limbs and ropes, tree stumps, slides, shelves, levels, ramps, etc into their enclosure is a must.
- Feed a balanced diet---they love fruits, some veggies, hard boiled eggs, chicken, sardines, unsweetened applesauce, etc. Anything not healthy for a dog, is likely not safe for your raccoon.
- Worm your coon OFTEN!!! We use nemex and panacur---dosages are on bottles. Raccoons can carry a very serious brain worm--more info on this is located on the raccoon tab. This is why raccoons are NOT a good idea for a family that might have small children who would stick hands in mouth! A 6 month to annual fecal check would be a great idea with your vet!
- DO's: Buy lots of toys! They love to play and be entertained. A ball pit filled with balls is fun for both you and your raccoon. Baby toys are a favorite as well, especially those with buttons that light up/talk. They love the interactive tables and push toys. You can also fill kiddy pool with water and add some minnows to catch and eat! Most love this source of enrichment (after they are at least 16 weeks).
- Don'ts: DON'T wear necklaces or bracelets around your coon! Mine all have a love for shiny things. They will most likely be broken!
- Always wash your hands!!
For Skunks:
- Make sure to supervise play time and check blankets/toys to make sure none have been chewed on! Impaction and blockage do happen occasionally!!
- Start litter training early, they are much like a ferret when it comes to training.
- Watch your skunks weight!! It is super easy to accidentally make your skunk obese. Skunks do not require a ton of food to be at a healthy weight.
- DO's: get an adjustable harness and take them for walks! They love being outside, walking, finding bugs, and digging!
- DO NOT feed fried foods, hot dogs, lunch meats, or fatty foods. These can lead to obesity.
- Keep your skunk wormed, suggested ones by vets include Panacur or Strongid. You can also purchase Nemex-2 or Pyrantel at local farm stores (Tractor Supply, Rural King), just be sure to follow dosage correctly. We use both nemex and panacur to rid of all worms. --Best practice would be to have fecals done every 6 months to check for parasites before deworming.
- As I said before on the skunk page, if you have any questions, check out http://www.skunkhaven.net. Deborah does an awesome job at covering everything you need to know!
- They do need TAURINE, be sure to look up the proper dosage amount for your skunk's weight. Skunkhaven.net has the suggested amount listed. Some foods come with it already added, but usually more is needed in their diet.
- Don't feed grapes or other foods that are on the do not feed list for dogs.
- If you purchase a male, get him fixed. They can become crabby and a little bitey during/after puberty. If able, spay females as well.
For Juliana Pigs:
- Do not overfeed your pig! Make sure you research a good, balanced diet. The care sheet provided above goes over amounts of feed for an adult.
- We use mini pig food by Mazuri brand (Tractor Supply), or Nutrena Brand (Rural King).
- Get a piggy harness! I guarantee your piggy will love you after they get to go outside on walks and root in the grass.
- They can be litter/pee pad trained so start early if you have this in mind.
- Early bonding is key with every animal!!!
- If you get a young piglet, less milk per feeding, more times a day, is more beneficial than more milk fewer times a day!! For example, do 3-4 ounces 3-4x a day instead of 5-8 ounces, 2x a day!! This will help with stomach aches, constipation, and diarrhea from over eating.
- If your piglet gets sick or has diarrhea, TEXT ME!! I will do my best to help. 812-508-2629.
- Young piglets need heat! For the first few weeks/months, providing a heating pad or other source of heat is essential! (Make sure it is not the kind that turns off in a certain amount of time, we Conair brand from dollar store or Walmart)